raw materials sourcing

Raw material 
sourcing

To source our raw materials more responsibly and continually improve the ethics and sustainability of our sourcing practices, delivering positive impact for people, nature and animals in the places where they’re produced.

Performance highlights

cocoa in our own-brand

20%

20% of cocoa in our own-brand products is verified deforestation-free through Tony’s Open Chain programme.

Cocoa first

Waitrose became the first UK grocery retailer to partner with Tony’s Open Chain, sourcing cocoa for nine of our own-brand chocolate bars. Tony’s Open Chain sourcing model aims to end exploitation in the cocoa industry and is underpinned by strong ethical sourcing principles, including paying farmers more, buying fully traceable beans and partnering with cooperatives in the long term.

farmers and workers

2.4M

In 2024, farmers and workers earned £2,396,454 via the Fairtrade Premium from sales of Waitrose own-brand items.

Fairtrade anniversary

In 2024, we celebrated 30 years of partnership with the Fairtrade Foundation. Through sales of Waitrose own-label Fairtrade-certified products over the past 9 years, producer cooperatives earned an estimated  £21,939,156 in Fairtrade Premium, an extra sum of money that farmers and workers invest in our banana, coffee, tea, cocoa, bagged sugar and wine supply chains, such as farming improvements and community initiatives of their choice.

We worked with suppliers

131

We worked with 131 suppliers to improve sourcing practices for man-made cellulosic fibres in our products.

Man-Made Cellulosics

This year, we’ve engaged with 131 suppliers whose products had man-made cellulosic fibres in their composition, helping us understand where this material is sourced. We’re now working to ensure that all suppliers are sourcing from fibre producers ranked as ‘green shirt’ using Canopy’s Hot Button Score system.

All feather and down in our own-brand bedding and cushions is from certified, more sustainable sources.

100%

All feather and down in our own-brand bedding and cushions is from certified, more sustainable sources.

Feather and Down

All feather and down for John Lewis own-brand filled bedding and cushions now comes from certified more sustainable sources. Adhering to standards such as DOWNPASS or the Responsible Down Standard means both animal welfare and quality are controlled along the supply chain.

Our approach to raw materials

Our business sources raw materials from farmers and producers across the globe, touching the lives of countless people and affecting animals and nature.

approach

As a result, sourcing raw materials is one of our most significant impacts on the world, be it on human rights and livelihoods, climate, animal welfare or the environment. It’s also one of our greatest opportunities to be a force for good. 

We continually seek to source responsibly and improve the ethics and sustainability of our sourcing, working closely with suppliers, expert partners and industry groups to raise standards and drive the systemic changes needed. 

Taking a risk-based approach, we prioritise areas where we have the greatest leverage: our highest volume and most impactful raw materials and supply chains. Because we know that complex problems, such as deforestation, require solutions that go beyond procurement standards, we address them through projects in key supply chains and regions, as well as multi-stakeholder industry initiatives.

Supporting Supply  Chain Workers
Compliant Commodity Sourcing
Comply with relevant EU and UK legislation on due diligence concerning forest-risk commodity sourcing
Compliant Commodity Sourcing
Supporting Supply  Chain Workers
Towards Zero Land Conversion
Work towards a zero deforestation and conversion target date of 2028 where we have not already established a target of 2025
Towards Zero Land Conversion
Supporting Supply  Chain Workers
Cleaner Inputs, Better Products
Source leather, polyester and man-made cellulosics for our own-brand products from more sustainable or recycled sources by December 2028
Cleaner Inputs, Better Products
Supporting Supply  Chain Workers
Better Materials, Better Future
Source soya, palm oil, cocoa, timber, cotton, feather and down and cashmere for our own-brand products from more sustainable or recycled sources by December 2025
Supporting Supply  Chain Workers
Supporting Supply  Chain Workers
Supporting Our Communities
Support communities where the Partnership operates by contributing time, money, space, or goods through charities and social impact activities.
Supporting Our Communities
Progress

Progress

We’re making meaningful progress on sourcing raw materials more sustainably.

New training for Partners is helping embed best practice across cotton, timber, feather and down. We’re increasing our use of certified cocoa, working towards fully certified cashmere across key suppliers, and preparing to report on recycled polyester in own-brand products. We’re also taking action to phase out decorative feathers in new designs until credible, welfare-assured sources are available.

Certified cashmere

We’ve been working with our Italian cashmere supplier, Effe Gi, to ensure that, from 2025, they’ll be supplying us with fully Sustainable Fibre Alliance-certified (SFA) cashmere. Effe Gi is our second-largest supplier of cashmere; our largest supplier, Artwell, is already 100% SFA-certified..

Polyester reporting

In 2025, for the first time, we’ll report the percentage of polyester in John Lewis own-brand products coming from recycled sources. We’re also launching an internal dashboard that will enable our teams to track progress towards our 2028 target.

Decorative feather & down

Building on our progress with feather and down in filled bedding, we’ve committed to begin moving away from using feathers for decorative purposes in any new own-brand products, such as hats and seasonal decorations, from autumn 2025 until credible sources can be found. The feather and down supply chain is considered high risk for animal welfare, and current certifications don’t cover decorative uses..

Training for partners

In 2024, we completed the content for a new package of introductory training modules aimed at Partners closest to the product development process. The modules cover information and best practice on sourcing raw materials, as well as specifics related to cotton and feather and down alongside our existing timber module. We’ll launch these modules as part of a package of Partner-focused material on ethics, sustainability and human rights in 2025.

Towards our cocoa target

Out of 1277 tonnes of cocoa sourced for all products in 2024, 60.6%was Fairtrade certified, and 29.7% was Rainforest Alliance certified. Also, by the end of the year 90.3% of products used only certified cocoa. We intend to transition the remaining products to meet our target in 2025..

1277

Tonnes of cocoa were sourced for products in 2024

60.6 %

Percentage of our cocoa that is Fairtrade certified

29.7 %

Percentage of our cocoa that is 
Rainforest Alliance certified

90.3 %

Percentage of products used certified cocoa by the end of 2024

100 %

All our cashmere comes from an 
SFA-certified supplie
Challenges

Challenges

Sourcing deforestation-free materials remains a major challenge, due to limited availability, complex supply chains and a lack of clear, verifiable data.

Global change is needed, and while we fully support new regulations, uncertainty around how and when they’ll be enforced adds complexity. We’re working with industry groups to drive progress.

Making further progress towards our palm oil target depends on finding ways to bring to market and verify deforestation-free sources – a challenge that requires substantial change in global industry and supply chains. To this end, we participate in the UK Sustainable Commodities Initiative Oleochemicals Working Group which has been conducting shared research on oleochemical supply chains.

The sourcing of deforestation-free materials more broadly continues to be a challenge due to a lack of availability and difficulty providing evidence to prove the traceability of deforestation-free sources. This is exacerbated by legislative uncertainty in the UK and EU surrounding the requirements of forest-risk commodities laws that necessitate due diligence on sourcing. We strongly support this regulation, although note that mandatory compliance with the EUDR  has been delayed until the end of 2025.

For soya, we have been working to address these challenges via our engagement in the UK Soy Manifesto and Retail Soy Group. Alongside the British Standard Institute, we have also co-funded the scoping of a new supply chain standard for deforestation-free animal feed.

Looking forward

Looking forward

We’re focusing on strengthening our supply chains to meet upcoming forest-risk regulations and move closer to our deforestation-free goals

We’re also updating sourcing policies, deepening our commitment to Better Cotton, and beginning to track our coffee footprint to better understand and support the communities behind the crops we rely on.

In 2025, we expect to focus a lot of effort on preparing for the rollout of due-diligence legislation on forest-risk commodities in the UK and EU. This work will also help support our commitment to achieve zero deforestation in our own-brand supply chains by 2025 and 2028.

Putting in place the enabling conditions for compliance and acting to mitigate supply chain risks is, therefore, a priority for the year ahead. We’ll also take this opportunity to update our raw material sourcing policies to further our deforestation-free commitments.

Other efforts in 2025 will include building on our work to date with Better Cotton. Following on from our support to establish the Better Cotton programme in Egypt in 2018, we intend to start sourcing segregated Better Cotton from Egypt as part of their new Chain of Custody. Better Cotton is the largest sustainability initiative for cotton and the most widely used sourcing option for the Partnership’s cotton products. Their mission is to help cotton communities survive and thrive, while protecting and restoring the environment.

Elsewhere, decades of global under-investment and the intensifying effects of climate change pose a risk to the sustainability of smallholder-grown crops like coffee. In 2025, we’ll be collecting data and reporting on our coffee sourcing footprint for the first time, helping us to understand our supply chain more deeply.

indigenous guardianship
Case Study

Indigenous 
guardianship

Helping indigenous communities preserve forest

We believe that sourcing raw materials responsibly also means supporting initiatives that promote sustainable production landscapes and communities in the places they are produced.

Helping indigenous communities preserve forests

As part of our commitment to responsible palm oil sourcing, we’ve spent the last four years providing funding to indigenous communities in East Kalimantan, Indonesia – money they’ve used to protect forests, maintain customs, build skills in conservation monitoring and develop sustainable income streams.

We believe that sourcing raw materials responsibly also means supporting initiatives that promote sustainable production landscapes and communities in the places they are produced.

One valuable way to do this is to enable indigenous and local people and nature to continue thriving together.

The Mului community has been fighting for the right to own and manage its lands for decades and, in 2018, it finally won that legal right across 7,200 hectares of forest. Over the last four years, Waitrose has provided funding of £84,000 via the Forest Conservation Fund to local NGO PADI, supporting the Mului with their development plan for the area and with government advocacy for the interests of the community and other indigenous groups.

Maintaining a thriving ecosystem for the long-term means ensuring good livelihoods for the forest community, as well as conserving vegetation and wildlife. One aspect of that work has seen the Mului community establish a forest patrol team that checks for signs of illegal encroachment and ensures the community farming activities don’t affect protected forest areas. The team also helps map the territory, using an app developed by PADI Indonesia to log data about the forest, including the variety of animal and plant species present.

As well as this, the support has enabled the creation of an indigenous knowledge and conservation school and curriculum that educates Mului young people about traditional wisdom and customary-based conservation practices – a vital component of the long-term strategy to sustain the cultural knowledge, beliefs and practices that will in-turn, maintain the conservation of customary forests.

The community has also been able to use funds to develop new income streams, such as through the training provided to produce Kelulut honey, using beneficial stingless bees, that is less affected by climate change than the wild-sourced honey they currently collect.

In recognition of their commitment and hard work to care for the forest, the Mului community has been honoured with Indonesia’s most prestigious environmental prize, the Kalpataru Award, and the example they’ve set is now having a wider influence in the region, helping other local and indigenous groups make the case for the benefits of customary forest management and learn from their approach.

Ahmad SJA, Executive Director of PADI Indonesia, “The grant from FCF to NGO PADI in the last three years has strengthened the capacity of the Mului Customary Community (MHA Mului) to continue conserving and affirming the identity of the Mului forest that they have been protecting for hundreds of years and in developing alternative economy which aligns with customary-based forest conservation values.”

Forest Conservation Fund's Linkedin Post

Our raw materials 
programmes & activity areas

batter cotton

John Lewis, Top Contributor Award Better Cotton Member Awards

RSPO Logo

No.1 retailer globally, WWF Palm Oil Buyers Scorecard

Basic working conditions

Protecting our forests

We source our raw materials in the most sustainable way possible to meet our target that all timber will come from more sustainable or recycled sources.

Addressing human rights

Timber

We source our raw materials in the most sustainable way possible to meet our target that all timber will come from more sustainable or recycled sources.

How we improve livelihoods

Cotton

Discover how we are promoting responsible cotton sourcing to improve ethical practices and reduce environmental impact.

How we improve livelihoods

Cacao

Find out how we’re sourcing cocoa responsibly to support farmers and protect ecosystems.

How we improve livelihoods

Palm oil

Learn about our commitment to sourcing sustainable palm oil and reducing its environmental footprint.

How we improve livelihoods

Soya

Explore how we’re addressing the environmental and social impacts of soya production through responsible sourcing.

Basic working conditions

Leather, polyester and man made cellulosics

Discover our approach to sourcing materials like leather, polyester and cellulosics with a focus on sustainability and transparency.

How we improve livelihoods

Responsible commodities facility

Find out how we are supporting the Responsible Commodities Facility (RCF) to drive responsible soya farming and protect forests in the Brazilian Cerrado.