Raw Materials Sourcing

Clearing of trees and woodland areas to meet global demand for timber-based products, or to make space for farming and food production drives the destruction of natural habitats, loss of biodiversity, and reduced carbon capture, all of which have significant economic, environmental and social impacts. As a responsible retailer we have a role to play in supporting sustainable forestry practices and curbing the worldwide trade in illegal timber. 

Sustainable forestry is defined as the management of forests in a way that maintains their biodiversity, productivity, and regeneration capacity. It also considers their potential to fulfil ecological, economic and social functions both now and in the future. We expect all our suppliers to comply with our John Lewis Partnership Timber Standard and, where applicable, the UK Timber Regulation (UKTR). However, our ultimate aim is to always exceed legislative requirements in our purchasing practices and source our raw materials in the most sustainable way possible.

Chocolate is a staple of many of our shopping baskets, however despite its popularity, smallholder farmers who produce cocoa struggle to make a living out of it. Around 90% of the world’s cocoa is grown on  family farms where income often fails to keep up with the rising costs of production. Many families in cocoa producing countries across West Africa and Latin America often struggle to access essentials such as healthcare, food and education. 

Since 2020, all cocoa used in our own-brand confectionery products is sourced on Fairtrade terms, which allow for the implementation of standards that empower farmers to reduce socioeconomic inequalities in the supply chain. We are committed to sourcing all other own-brand cocoa to responsible standards (Fairtrade or Rainforest Alliance) by 2025.

Waitrose is a founding member of the Retailers’ Cocoa Collaboration which aims to support existing industry efforts to drive improvements in the cocoa sector.

Over 90% of global soya is used in animal feed. A high protein bean, it’s a key nutritional ingredient in some animal diets, particularly for our pigs, poultry and farmed fish. However, the increased demand for soy is having a negative environmental and social impact. Most globally traded soy is grown in South America, where deforestation and the conversion of natural habitats - along with the associated impacts on biodiversity and climate change - is an urgent problem.

Our aim is to source the soya in our animal and aquaculture feed from physically certified (mass-balance or segregated) supply chains, from verified sourcing areas, or from low-risk countries, and from soya traders that have committed to only source their soya from farms that have not caused deforestation. The complexity of international soya supply chains means unfortunately, there is still a lot of work to do to make this a reality, and we recognise this is not something Waitrose working alone can deliver. For this reason, we work actively as part of a number of industry groups to help drive the changes needed to transform the market in the UK and beyond, and have supported the introduction of ambitious due diligence legislation for forest risk commodities by the UK Government.

We are also interested in the soya footprint used to produce animal or fish-derived ingredients in the food we sell. For many of these we don’t have direct influence over the animal feed used to produce them. For this portion of our footprint, and where sourcing physically certified soya in feed isn’t yet possible, we believe the most impactful thing we can do is to buy Roundtable on Responsible Soya (RTRS) credits, which are a vital tool to support and incentivise farmers to produce soya responsibly. 

Soya used directly in our products, such as soya milk, makes up less than 1% of our business’ total soya footprint. We also buy RTRS credits to cover this portion of our footprint.

Since 2016, no soya has been used in feed rations for dairy cows by the Waitrose Dairy Farmers group in order to produce Waitrose Essentials own-label milk and cream. As of 1 January 2020, no soya is used in the production of young stock for dairy production either.

Find out more on our soya targets, scope and standards.

Supporting wider industry change 

- In 2021, we became signatories of the UK Soy Manifesto, an industry commitment to work collaboratively to ensure all soy imported into the UK is deforestation and conversion free no later than 2025. 

- We are active members of the Roundtable on Responsible Soy (RTRS), and have submitted our annual progress report and purchased RTRS soya credits each year since 2012. 

-We have participated in the UK Roundtable on Sustainable Soya since its inception and sit on the steering group, and physical supply chains working group, where we collaborate with other companies and NGOs to move the whole UK soya supply to a more sustainable footing.

-We support the Amazon Soy Moratorium and are signatories to the Statement of Support for the Cerrado Manifesto, which aim to ensure the rainforests and natural grasslands of Brazil are properly protected. 

-We are a part of the Retail Soy Group and founder members of the Soy Transparency Coalition: a group of companies working together to achieve transparency on soy traders’ practices and performance, in order to eliminate deforestation from soy supply chains.  

- We are a founding partner of the Responsible Commodities Facility, a fund created to find innovative solutions to tackle soy-driven ecosystem conversion in the Cerrado region in Brazil.

Alternatives to soya

For many species of farmed animals and fish, soya is an ideal feed ingredient and is hard to replace fully. Which is why, where we use it, sourcing soya sustainably is essential. Waitrose is committed to working on feed innovation with our suppliers, where substituting soya with other ingredients can potentially reduce animal feed’s environmental footprint whilst maintaining or improving animal welfare. 

Waitrose participated in the Forage Protein Programme, where farmers in our beef, lamb and milk supply chains grew new forage protein crops on their farms. Following this five-year Innovate UK funded project, and collaborating with industry and academic partners, we launched a range of Waitrose Farming Partnership grass and protein mixes for our farmers to grow. Results of the research found adopting these mixes on-farm could reduce greenhouse gas emissions per kg of product by up 27%. They also resulted in financial savings of up to 20% per kg. This saving was driven by reduced demand for imported feed proteins such as soya and reduced need for the use of fertilisers on pasture. 

Waitrose also participated in a four-year Innovate UK funded ‘Optibean’ project exploring using faba beans as a potential replacement for soya in animal feed. Successful feeding trials have been carried out across our pig, poultry, egg and fish supply chains.

We have long been committed to ensuring high standards of animal welfare throughout our supply chains. From our engagement with the global animal welfare organisation, Four Paws, we know the risks involved in sourcing feather and down. We’ve been working with our suppliers and third-party certification bodies, including DOWNPASS and the Textile Exchange, for a number of years to realise our commitment. We define responsibly sourced feather and down as meeting one of the following certification standards:

• Responsible Down Standard (RDS)
• DOWNPASS
• GRS

Previously, we set a target to certify all filled feather and down in John Lewis own-brand products by 2021. Whilst good progress was made, we were unable to report on this due to data and system limitations. In 2022, we reinstated feather and down as a key raw material within scope of our 2025 target. We expect all own-brand filled feather and down products to be certified well ahead of 2025.

We recognise that cotton production can have significant economic, environmental and social impacts. We have a role to play in supporting responsible and sustainable farming practices in cotton production, including efficient water usage and reduction in the use of harmful chemicals and protecting the human rights of those working in these chains.

We are committed to sourcing our own brand cotton more sustainably. We define ‘more sustainable’ as meeting one of the following criteria:

• The Better Cotton standard
• Certified to Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS)
• Certified to Global Recycling Standard (GRS)

Better Cotton

We are a proud member of Better Cotton. By choosing our cotton products, you’re supporting our investment in Better Cotton’s mission to help cotton communities survive and thrive, while protecting and restoring the environment. 

Working collaboratively with the retail sector and organisations such as Better Cotton is important in driving improvements in cotton supply chains. We became a member in 2015, working closely not just to ensure our own cotton is responsibly sourced, but to drive improvements across the industry. In 2021, an estimated 1.85 billion litres of water were saved and estimated 1176kg of pesticide usage was avoided thanks to the John Lewis Partnership’s souring of Better Cotton. We face significant challenges in tracing the cotton used in our own-brand products throughout complex supply chains. We are active members of the Better Cotton Traceability Steering Group, representing small retailers and brand members, with the aim of piloting new, more traceable supply chain models.

Palm oil production has been associated with negative social and environmental consequences in producing countries, from deforestation to worker exploitation; these are impacts we are deeply concerned about, and committed to addressing. We believe the only effective way to stop these is to help build a lasting solution that transforms the market for sustainable palm oil around the world to make it the norm, and which delivers sustainable development in producing countries.

Our work on this includes a number of measures, such as:

• Sourcing sustainable palm-based materials in all of our products that are free from deforestation and conversion, and human rights abuses – As defined by the Accountability Framework
• Engaging our direct suppliers to commit to do the same across their operations, only source ingredients from responsible traders and refiners, and to report on their progress publicly. 
• Engaging palm oil traders and refiners to increase their transparency and to commit and make progress toward sourcing all their raw materials free from deforestation and conversion, and human rights abuses
• Actively participating in multi-stakeholder groups and with NGOs to help drive market-wide changes in both the production and sourcing of palm oil, and support the Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil in its mission. 
• Advocating to governments in support of due diligence measures in the UK and EU to ensure imported palm oil is free from deforestation and conversion, and exploitation. Also for stronger legal protection in producer countries. 
• Providing support for local and indigenous peoples to protect and restore tropical forests in sourcing regions and achieve sustainable development 
• Supporting smallholder farmers to improve their livelihoods and conserve forests

The John Lewis Partnership is committed to sourcing 100% of all palm-based materials in its products via Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO) certified supply chains. 

• For food products, our target is to source 100% of these materials as RSPO Segregated by February 2022. 
• For the use of crude palm and palm kernel oil in non-food products, our target is to source 100% of these materials as RSPO Segregated by January 2023. 
• We aim to source all of the palm-based materials in all of our products as RSPO Segregated by January 2025.

Find out more in our Responsible Sourcing of Palm Oil policy summary.

For detail on our progress against our palm oil targets, please see our Ethics and Sustainability 2022/23 report.

For the very small amount of palm ingredients that are not yet physically certified, while we work with suppliers to physically certify the remaining palm-based ingredients in our products, we purchase special RSPO credits that directly support smallholder farmers. 

Buying these RSPO smallholder credits supports and incentivises the production of responsible palm oil in these communities, helping them to improve their agricultural practices, productivity, livelihoods and to protect forests on and around their land.

This year, Waitrose was also the first retailer to assess the use of palm-based materials in feed used by its farming partnership groups to produce meat, eggs, milk and fish. Where this wasn’t already certified, we bought an equivalent amount of RSPO Independent Smallholder Credits from farmer cooperatives in Indonesia.

WORKING WITH OTHERS

Through the collaborative groups below, we actively work to strengthen international standards and institutions for certified sustainable palm oil, and to expand their uptake. 

Via our membership of the Retailers’ Palm Oil Group, we have a representative on the RSPO Board of Governors. We also participate actively in the work of the UK Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil and its communication working group.

Waitrose is also a founding member of the Palm Oil Transparency Coalition. As a part of this coalition, we want palm oil importers to be held accountable to their own commitments on zero-deforestation and exploitation, and their progress towards them. As a part of this, our direct suppliers declare to us which companies import their palm oil, so we can work with them to align our sourcing with those traders that share our ambition and are making concrete progress.

ALTERNATIVES TO PALM OIL

As required by labelling standards, since 2006 we've listed the different types of oils we use in our products ingredients list, including palm oil. While we have removed palm oil where it makes sense for optimising a product’s quality or to improve the health profile of a product, we do not believe eliminating palm oil and palm-based ingredients from all products is the right thing to do to solve the sustainability and ethical problems that are associated with the industry. A view also shared by many of the world's leading conservation organisations.

The latest evidence suggests the outcome of eliminating palm oil from products and replacing them with other vegetable oils would simply displace tropical deforestation to new locations, resulting in little or no overall benefit for biodiversity or for the environment, or people.

From sweaters to hats, cashmere is included in a wide range of John Lewis products. We choose our suppliers very carefully and are committed to ensuring high standards of animal welfare.

Cashmere production is the backbone of nomadic herders’ livelihoods in Mongolia, and other cashmere producing regions in Northern China. Current grazing practices for cashmere goats, combined with climate change, are putting their livelihoods at risk. We are working to create a more sustainable system for cashmere production.

We’re a pioneering member of the Sustainable Fibre Alliance (SFA) – a non-profit UK-based organisation working across the extended cashmere supply chain. Our commitment is to work with the SFA to develop a best practice standard and to work more collaboratively with our peers to ensure we can have a wider and more lasting impact on the industry. Find out more.

In 2022 we added new raw materials to our priority list: leather, polyester, and man-made cellulosics such as viscose. As with our focus on other materials, we are addressing the issues associated with sourcing these products through both improving our own standards and collaborating with others to address shared issues and raise the industry bar. We want to be as transparent as possible in this process, so will be reporting on our scope, standards and progress in our upcoming E&S report. 

Leather Working Group

The John Lewis Partnership joined the Leather Working Group (LWG) in 2016 to support more responsible leather manufacturing.